The Technology Help Corner.

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But, lets talk about the background picture, it is why i came here, why can i not put it in center at normal size? It makes no sense
Now the computer is making weird whirring noise every 30 seconds, maybe fan dirt

Vicarious Reality:
snip

Woah woah.. One thing at a time
1. Yes the ps/2 port at the back of your PC is for both a keyboard or a mouse. Manufacturers save money because almost all mice sold nowadays are USB, so you only need to plug your keyboard there.

2. Are you sure it's the mouse that's freezing and not the PC itself? Can you do anything while the mouse is frozen like use the keyboard? If you are 100% sure it's the mouse, well, try a new one. Regardless, you should download and run Malwarebytes. Internet usage has no negative effect on peripherals by the way.

3. That's wayyyyy too much virtual memory you set. As a rule of thumb you should have double the size of your ram, however virtual memory isn't really used by programs anyway since RAM size nowadays is adequate in most computers. It should be set at 5-8gigs max. Did you have the shutdown problem before you set the virtual memory at 50gigs? It might be caused by this.

5. As for the background image, do you mean the desktop's background? It's pretty easy to set up in: Control Panel\Appearance and Personalization\Personalization\Desktop Background there's a section called Picture Position, assuming you're using Windows 7 of course.

My Computer refuses to play DVD's properly no matter what I do. Every single tie, I only get audio, no video.

I tried getting video codecs, audio no video.

I tried updating/using both players that came with the PC, audio, no video.

I even tried different DVD players that you can download for free like GOM Player, BlazeDVD and VLC Player. Every. Single Time: Audio, no video.

I am literally stumped at this stage.

AxelxGabriel:
-snip

Can you play other videos files? What codecs did you install?
I suggest you uninstall everything and do a clean installation of K-lite Codec pack and use Media Player Classic, which is provided in the pack, for watching DVDs.

AWAR:

AxelxGabriel:
-snip

Can you play other videos files? What codecs did you install?
I suggest you uninstall everything and do a clean installation of K-lite Codec pack and use Media Player Classic, which is provided in the pack, for watching DVDs.

Other video files give me the same problem.

And the codec pack didn't work

AxelxGabriel:
snip

You have to be more clear than that. What do you mean it didn't work? Did you get an error message? If yes what it said.

AWAR:

AxelxGabriel:
snip

You have to be more clear than that. What do you mean it didn't work? Did you get an error message? If yes what it said.

What I mean is the codec pack and Media player were installed just fine, it still didn't work anyway.

Sounds like it might be time to pull everything apart, clean all the connectors and do a clean OS reinstall on top of that.

RhombusHatesYou:
Sounds like it might be time to pull everything apart, clean all the connectors and do a clean OS reinstall on top of that.

What? A full OS reinstall I understand, but how's pulling everything apart and cleaning the connectors going to help?

AWAR:

RhombusHatesYou:
Sounds like it might be time to pull everything apart, clean all the connectors and do a clean OS reinstall on top of that.

What? A full OS reinstall I understand, but how's pulling everything apart and cleaning the connectors going to help?

It almost certainly won't help as this sounds like a deep-code software issue. My bad.

Still, reseating all the cards and connectors isn't a bad habit to get into when you're about to do a clean install. Not necessary but it's as good a time as any (and better than most) to make sure everything's seated properly, take a bit of time to redo your cable management, chase out any small lizards from the case, clean the dust filters (and patch the hole the lizards are getting in through) and so on.

The cleaning part is unnecessary. Bad habit from dealing with people who let all the shit build up inside their cases to the point where a chisel would be a better option than compressed air for removing it.

RhombusHatesYou:
-snip

Well, it certainly is a bad habit if you don't know what you're doing, see metalrock's posts on the previous page. Other than cleaning I wouldn't recommend messing with the hardware in any way if you're not absolutely sure you won't mess something up.

I got a general question on pc gaming, would there be any way to make a laptop "better" for gaming?
My current laptop specs are copy pasta'ed from Speccy)

Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit SP1
CPU
AMD Turion X2 Ultra ZM-82 54 C
Griffin 65nm Technology
RAM
4.00GB DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Motherboard
Compal 30FC (Socket M2/S1G1) 48 C
Graphics
Generic PnP Monitor (1440x900@59Hz)
ATI Radeon HD 3200 Graphics (HP)
Hard Drives
149GB Western Digital WDC WD1600BEKT-00PVMT0 ATA Device (SATA) 33 C
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GT20L ATA Device
Audio
High Definition Audio Device

I know the only thing you can really upgrade in a laptop is the ram, and that 4gb is a reasonable amount already. And that using a GPU docking deck would cost alot of money, and i wouldn't really like to spend all that much.

I feel like i already know the answer, which is no, but still playing GW2 at 17 fps on low is a bit depressing. id really like to hit a stable 30fps without stuttering, and since bringing a desktop over to my dorm isnt really a option since i travel by bus, and they arent really "gentle" with luggage, im low on possibilities.

Rosiv:
-snip

Since the graphics card uses shared memory, you might get a very minor performance boost (we are talking >5 fps here) from higher clocked ram, however there is no telling if your Laptop can support such kind of ram. And I don't really think it's worth the money anyway. What about a mini-itx build? I think you are allowed to carry handbags in buses.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

Since the graphics card uses shared memory, you might get a very minor performance boost (we are talking >5 fps here) from higher clocked ram, however there is no telling if your Laptop can support such kind of ram. And I don't really think it's worth the money anyway. What about a mini-itx build? I think you are allowed to carry handbags in buses.

Thanks, i didnt know mini itx builds could do so well. Although its out of my price range. I was thinking of going a micro atx standard, i have a gtx 8800 at home that may or may not work, and i believe it can do some games on mid, ill just need all the other parts, the case, cpu, mobo, ram, hdd.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

Since the graphics card uses shared memory, you might get a very minor performance boost (we are talking >5 fps here) from higher clocked ram, however there is no telling if your Laptop can support such kind of ram. And I don't really think it's worth the money anyway. What about a mini-itx build? I think you are allowed to carry handbags in buses.

Off topic, but do you think a external SSD would work for my laptop, in by reducing load times for games? And if so, could you suggest a small sized ssd and the device i would need to connect it with. My laptop has a eSata port.

Rosiv:
-snip

eSata is essentially a beefed up USB port, meaning that transfer speeds aren't going to be great. The logical thing to do is to replace the internal Hard drive with an SSD, and use the mechanical drive as an external one. Depends on the laptop though, older models don't support SSDs. You also need to make sure you can actually swap the drive.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

eSata is essentially a beefed up USB port, meaning that transfer speeds aren't going to be great. The logical thing to do is to replace the internal Hard drive with an SSD, and use the mechanical drive as an external one. Depends on the laptop though, older models don't support SSDs. You also need to make sure you can actually swap the drive.

Hmm,i guess ill make my own build then.

I was planing to ask for a crappy refurbished small form factor pc for my X-mas present, since they are about the cost of a new case, and it comes with so much.

That being said, id appricate your help in selecting parts.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?Recs=10&Nav=|c:2628|lp:50:hp:99.99|&Sort=4

Could you pick the "best" pc suited for gaming there, thats has a small size?

And then suggest a GPU/PSU that i could use.

I was thinking of this low profile card:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102958&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo

SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6670 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready Low Profile Video Card

As for the PSU, im not sure how much wattage i need, or what reliable itx brands there are.

Newegg had a small list, but the reviews on alot of them didnt seem convincing.

Thanks for all your help.

Rosiv:
-snip

The first link doesn't work.
You should note that unless you spend a hefty sum on a custom mini itx system, you're gonna end up with something as powerful as a low-mid end gaming laptop and only half as reliable. If you don't have much of a problem with lowering the details a little, something like this should fit your gaming needs.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

The first link doesn't work.
You should note that unless you spend a hefty sum on a custom mini itx system, you're gonna end up with something as powerful as a low-mid end gaming laptop and only half as reliable. If you don't have much of a problem with lowering the details a little, something like this should fit your gaming needs.

Eh i already have a laptop, and i dont like the temps i get when running anything. Thats why i want a desktop.

I was thinking id go for a very small mirco atx compatable case.

I was looking some up on newegg, and i saw a smallish one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811154094

APEX TX-381-C Black Steel Micro ATX Tower Computer Case

I thought of this Mobo:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131795

ASUS M5A78L-M LX PLUS AM3+ AMD 760G Micro ATX AMD Motherboard

With this CPU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113291

AMD FX-4130 Zambezi 3.8GHz Socket AM3+ Quad-Core Desktop Processor FD4130FRGUBOX

And this GPU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102988

SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6670 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

With HDD

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3232686&CatId=139

WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive

And windows 7

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

I know im asking alot, but could you look it over to see if it gels?

Rosiv:
-snip

Ok this is a micro atx system, not a mini itx one.
The one you came up with is meh. I suggest the following (too lazy to post links sorry)
CPU: AMD A10-6800k
GPU: integrated in the CPU, 8670D
Ram: 8 gigs, make sure it's 1866mhz.
MoBo: MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 FM2 AMD A75 (Hudson D3), or this which for some reason is ridiculously cheap but not much worse.
PSU: Most 450-500 watt psus will do. Just make sure it's rated at least 80+ bronze. Corsair is a reliable brand.

This should perform better, consume less and it should be cheaper than your selection.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

Ok this is a micro atx system, not a mini itx one.
The one you came up with is meh. I suggest the following (too lazy to post links sorry)
CPU: AMD A10-6800k
GPU: integrated in the CPU, 8670D
Ram: 8 gigs, make sure it's 1866mhz.
MoBo: MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 FM2 AMD A75 (Hudson D3), or this which for some reason is ridiculously cheap but not much worse.
PSU: Most 450-500 watt psus will do. Just make sure it's rated at least 80+ bronze. Corsair is a reliable brand.

This should perform better, consume less and it should be cheaper than your selection.

Ok so would these parts all work?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130661

MSI FM2-A55M-E33 FM2 AMD A55 (Hudson D2) HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ram

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820403006&Tpk=1866mhz

AMD Radeon Performance Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model AP38G1869U1K

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
APU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113331

AMD A10-6800K Richland 4.1GHz (4.4GHz Turbo) Socket FM2 100W Quad-Core Desktop Processor - Black Edition AMD Radeon HD 8670D

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
windows 7

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153

Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm Fan, 1x Rear 120mm Fan, option Fans-2x Side 120mm Fan

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028

CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HDD

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339

Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive - OEM

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The pricing came to about currently 469, but will prob. raise a bit since i cant buy at this exact moment.

Still it looks pretty good, the only thing is this will be my first build. If you have any tips/how to guides that are good to follow i would appreciate it.

And also, is it safe to put a desktop in a suitcase assembled for travel? Or would the best option be to dissemble it, repack the parts in electro static bags to protect them, and then put it in the suitcase. (it is a very large suitcase)

Rosiv:
le snip

Looks good, but why did you change the case? That rosewill is a regular mid tower case, not very portable. I'd also recommend a single 8gig stick, since the motherboard only has 2 slots, though that radeon ram looks pretty sweet.
As for traveling with it, it has no separate graphics card so it should be pretty safe to carry around. I personally wouldn't bother disassembling it. You might want to get some packaging material so it doesn't wiggle inside the suitcase.

Here's a couple of useful links:

AWAR:

Rosiv:
le snip

Looks good, but why did you change the case? That rosewill is a regular mid tower case, not very portable. I'd also recommend a single 8gig stick, since the motherboard only has 2 slots, though that radeon ram looks pretty sweet.
As for traveling with it, it has no separate graphics card so it should be pretty safe to carry around. I personally wouldn't bother disassembling it. You might want to get some packaging material so it doesn't wiggle inside the suitcase.

Here's a couple of useful links:

I dont understand, if the motherboard only has 2 slots, and i have 2 sticks of ram, wouldnt that be good? Or am i missing something? Could you suggest something? Thank you for all your help.

Rosiv:
-snip

It's not that important but you might want a single 8gig, since 2x4gig dimms are going to occupy all the slots and make it hard to upgrade to more RAM in the future.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

It's not that important but you might want a single 8gig, since 2x4gig dimms are going to occupy all the slots and make it hard to upgrade to more RAM in the future.

I am starting to purchase parts for my build above, and i was hoping you could advice me on some changes i made.

I wanted a modular PSU so cable management wouldn't be a pain, since i am going with a mirco atx case.

APEX TX-381-C Black Steel Micro ATX Tower Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811154094

This is the modular power supply

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016&Tpk=Antec%20BP550%20Plus%20550W

Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Intel Haswell Fully Compatible

And i chose a cd/dvd drive as well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151267

SAMSUNG Black 18X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD-ROM Drive Model SH-118BB

Could i get your opinion on compatibility with the rest of my system?

Rosiv:
-snip

No need to worry about compatibility issues with those parts, although I'd recommend this psu instead, that antec one doesn't seem as reliable (its 80plus certification is probably fake as well).
If you aren't in a hurry I'd suggest waiting till the next month when the new Kaveri APUs are released.

Okay so for Christmas I was given a new wireless Xbox 360 controller for my PC. I have followed the instructions carefully and I have done everything required. But the controller just will not connect to the receiver under any circumstances so far.

I have installed the correct drivers.
The USB receiver does work. The green light flashes.
I have tried using the sync buttons on both the receiver and controller.
I have unistalled and reinstalled the most up to date drivers from the Microsoft website.
I have reset my computer.

The controller just continues to flash green lights around the home button.

Please help, I really don't want to have to go through the microsoft warranty maze.

My little brother has problem with his computer. It would cycle on and off repeatedly without even displaying anything. And it was filled with dust. So i cleaned it out. But it still wouldnt work. I removed the graphics card, and it stoped cycling on and off. So i belive the power supply is dying. Any solutions to this besides replacing the PSU? (im tapped for cash)

Rosiv:
My little brother has problem with his computer. It would cycle on and off repeatedly without even displaying anything. And it was filled with dust. So i cleaned it out. But it still wouldnt work. I removed the graphics card, and it stoped cycling on and off. So i belive the power supply is dying. Any solutions to this besides replacing the PSU? (im tapped for cash)

If you can try the graphics card in another system. IF a PSU is failing then a skilled electronics engineer could possibly repair it. Usually its faulty caps or shorted transistors i would not recommend working on mains voltage stuff if you are inexperienced.

Once the GPU is tested we will know more but i would hold off buying a PSU until you have tested it. Also don't buy a cheap PSU you risk your components and potently your own safety. if you give is the specs of the system then someone on here will recommend you a good one such as seaasonic they make PSUs for many brands including corsair you cannot go far wrong with them.

Slitzkin:
Okay so for Christmas I was given a new wireless Xbox 360 controller for my PC. I have followed the instructions carefully and I have done everything required. But the controller just will not connect to the receiver under any circumstances so far.

I have installed the correct drivers.
The USB receiver does work. The green light flashes.
I have tried using the sync buttons on both the receiver and controller.
I have unistalled and reinstalled the most up to date drivers from the Microsoft website.
I have reset my computer.

The controller just continues to flash green lights around the home button.

Please help, I really don't want to have to go through the microsoft warranty maze.

Do you have a 360 to test the controller on ?

Download http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html and run it and see if you can see anything that may be the Receiver, it may be getting power from the USB port but the data line may not be connected.

Rosiv:

I dont understand, if the motherboard only has 2 slots, and i have 2 sticks of ram, wouldnt that be good? Or am i missing something? Could you suggest something? Thank you for all your help.

Do not run with a single stick you will impact performance as the ram will only run in single channel always go with a matched kit. You can always upgrade to 2x8 later and sell the 2x4 kit.

If you are using integrated graphics its even more important get the fastest ram you can afford.

Thanks for the advice alj, although i have a different question. I bought a new CPU fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186090

ARCTIC COOLING Alpine 7 GT (UC-AR7GT-AC-01) 80mm CPU Cooler for Intel

Because the stock CPU fan that came with with my CPU, AMD A10-6800K, was getting 50-60 degrees Celsius on idle, and 80 degrees on load(playing a video game)

Now that i have the fan, my temps aren't really getting any better. As I'm typing this, my temps are around a constant 58 degrees.

I made sure to clean off ALL the thermal paste after replacing the old CPU fan, and the new CPU fan is on correctly.

Is the fan just crappy? Should I invest in a new one? Cause I don't have the money. I tried using MSI Afterburner to control the cpu fan speed, but I didn't get the option, and the program Speedfan, which i read was good for this sort of thing was very confusing to use.

Actually, now that i finished typing, the temp is at around 65 degrees.

Rosiv:
-snip

That's a crappy cooler :P. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.

AWAR:

Rosiv:
-snip

That's a crappy cooler :P. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.

I see, do you think i should disable the cool and quiet feature in the bios, and crank fan up to constant high? Or should i take my gtx 550 ti from my own home computer and instal it in this new one, so it would reduce strain on the cpu's graphics, if that is how it works?

What would be a good program to accurately get temps then on a load? Or should i just forget about it?

Thanks for the help.

Rosiv:
-snip

I kind of confused Cool n Quiet with Fan control[1]. CnC just throttles the speed and undervolts the cpu when idle to save power and reduce noise from the fans, it should be on by default [2].

You don't need to control the fans manually. The mobo's Fan control configures the speed so it's automatically cranked up when the temperature is high. Most motherboards allow some customization of their fan control like setting target temperatures e.t.c. You will have to check your bios settings for that.
Temps could theoretically drop if you add the 550ti. I'd also recommend re-installing the stock cooler with a new layer of thermal paste, preferably one I recommend in my previous post. I use CPUID HWmonitor for temperature monitoring but in your case I don't think it would be of much use.

[1] each company names this thing differently, in Asus boards it's Q-Fan control, in Gigabyte and MSI it's usually SmartFan control or something along these lines
[2] CPUz will show ~800mhz clock speed instead of your APUs default 4100mhz when idle, if CNC is enabled.

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