My planned P.C. build thread.

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So, I've been planning a P.C build for a while, and I'm very happy with what I've put together, but I thought I'd put it before the good people of the escapist to see what they thought of it.

So, if you've got any questions at all about the suitability of these parts or about the quality of this build, please don't hesitate to throw them at me, but I'll see if I can pre-empt a few here.

It's something I'll be using for both work and gaming, and I think it should be capable of both of these.

I've checked, and I've no reason to believe that any of these parts are incompatible with each other. (But if you can find otherwise, fair enough.)

In terms of budget, it 's something I'll be putting together over time. I plan to put the case together (sans graphics card, SSD and after-market cooling), along with the monitor, peripherals and windows 7 for Christmas. After that, saving money, a summer job and falling hardware prices will allow me to pick up everything else before I start university in September/October 2013.

All of these parts are name-branded and reliable, and they all have 4+ star ratings on amazon, so it can be assumed that they have at least a reasonable degree of durability.

As for overclocking, I'll probably wait a few years to overclock, once it becomes necessary and I'm angling to replace parts anyway.

Yeah, so basically that's it. As I said before, please don't hesistate to question any parts that you think could cause issues or think could be replaced with better ones. And thanks in advance to anyone who wants to contribute.

EDIT: after some (justified) concerns about my LCD monitor, I switched it out for this one. It'll also plug into both my motherboard and it's certain to fit into a GPU. It looks much better. Although, again, if you see problems, let me know.

EDIT: Stop asking me to pay 50 for a gaming mouse, goddamit! Good lord, I can understand if you think my mouse is inadequate, but 50 for a mouse? Really? I'm not professionally gaming. 10 for a mouse is plenty. Seriously, stop being so silly.

(And it'd have to be a damn good mouse, because this one has tonnes of 5-star reviews form amazon.)

YET ANOTHER EDIT: I'm also not interested in increasing the power supply. 650W is absolutely plenty. An overclocked 2500k with overclocked 560ti's in SLI barely breaks 500. I will be fine with one more power-efficient CPU and one more power efficient GPU.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/newegg-pc-benchmark-review,review-32410-12.html

Maybe switch the mouse to razer? besides that there's nothing you need to change.

But seeing that the K&B you chose are super cheap i guess you don't care about it.

And change the monitor to IPS LED,they are super good.

Great build! But I would change the screen, I'd go for an LED panel rather than LCD, far better contrast ratios.

Lastly, I'd look into overclocking sooner rather than later. The processor should be relatively easy via the BIOS. And the graphics card will be extremely easy to overclock through software.

yuval152:

And change the monitor to IPS LED,they super good.

mikecoulter:
I'd go for an LED panel rather than LCD, far better contrast ratios.

I'd rather stick with this monitor, really. It's the only 1920x1080 monitor I could find for under 100, and the differences can't be that significant, right?

EDIT: actually, there is a difference. Hmmmm.....

trollpwner:

yuval152:

And change the monitor to IPS LED,they super good.

mikecoulter:
I'd go for an LED panel rather than LCD, far better contrast ratios.

I'd rather stick with this monitor, really. It's the only 1920x1080 monitor I could find for under 100, and the differences can't be that significant, right?

I think the colors look much better and the picture is sharper.(I have a IPS 226)

Everything seems alright except that you need either a smaller cooler or a much bigger case. I'd go with the smaller cooler, perhaps one of the smaller Noctua models. If you're not planning to overclock you don't even need to buy a Noctua really and can look into a cheaper alternative. Arctic Cooling have a decent range.

As for the case: it seems like you are cheaping out a bit here. Given the cost of your componants I would think you would want a case to match. I'm using a Cooler Master HAF922 myself and I'm suitably impressed. Lots of airflow, very roomy inside and easy to keep things neat and tidy.

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6606

PS: Something to watch out for when buing cases and power supplies. Most cases have bottom mounted PSU, but a lot of PSUs are designed to fit in a top mounted case. They will still fit, but the air flow won't be optimal and you'll need to buy an extension lead for your CPU power supply.

Looks like a good setup.

Being a PC gamer for the last 17 years (consoles before that) I'd recommend to put some extra money on your mouse and maybe keyboard and headset (if you're going to use headset for gaming and VOIP).

I just got a new mouse (again) and after careful consideration and testing - and of course reading a lot of reviews and opinions - I finally decided to go for Mionix Naos 5000 and the mouse pad Mionix Propus 380. I've had a lot of "ergonomic" mice but this is really a delight to put your hand on. :) I'm not going to write up a review, but it is really, really great. Both in terms of performance, precision and comfort.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/MIONIX-Gaming-5040dpi-Sensor-NAOS-5000/dp/B0032UQKYU/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1344090796&sr=1-2

If the price is a little high, they also have a "little brother" but still close to the performance and precision. They use the same design so they're both as comfortable.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/MIONIX-Optical-Sensor-3200dpi-Gaming/dp/B0046Y0Y20/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1344090796&sr=1-1

If nothing else I'd recommend you trying one of them out, preferrable beside the mouse you've chosen.

After all, you're going to use your mouse every single time you're at the computer, not only for gaming. Mouse, mousepad, keyboard and headset are often forgotten when putting lots of money on the internal components.

They can also make a bigger difference gameplay wise than a better GPU (although they obviously doesn't give you any better looking graphics :P).

Djinn8:
Everything seems alright except that you need either a smaller cooler or a much bigger case. I'd go with the smaller cooler, perhaps one of the smaller Noctua models. If you're not planning to overclock you don't even need to buy a Noctua really and can look into a cheaper alternative. Arctic Cooling have a decent range.

As for the case: it seems like you are cheaping out a bit here. Given the cost of your componants I would think you would want a case to match. I'm using a Cooler Master HAF922 myself and I'm suitably impressed. Lots of airflow, very roomy inside and easy to keep things neat and tidy.

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6606

PS: Something to watch out for when buing cases and power supplies. Most cases have bottom mounted PSU, but a lot of PSUs are designed to fit in a top mounted case. They will still fit, but the air flow won't be optimal and you'll need to buy an extension lead for your CPU power supply.

Nope.avi

Several of the positive comments about it say that it fits into an antec 300 case with about 1 cm to spare. No problem there. Also, I like this case. It's got good airflow, plenty of room and looks quite nice.

EDIT: Here, check this out.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=antec+300+noctua+nh-d14&aq=0&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D4&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=tjcdUNqTOqyY0QX8uICIBw&biw=1280&bih=923&sei=uDcdUPDAAq3s0gXF64GgAg

EDIT AGAIN: a little off-topic, but some of the pictures I found when I googled that made me chuckle:

Get a better PSU.

Something like 800W will cover you better, I'd say.

You're more than fine with that PSU, don't listen to anyone saying otherwise. You won't have any problem running your hardware on it. Not even close.

AmrasCalmacil:
Get a better PSU.

Something like 800W will cover you better, I'd say.

I'd say 650W is excessive actually. The 670 (which requires more energy than the 660ti will) has a 500W recommended PSU. 600W would probably be plenty for me. I'm only going for this model because it's got a good reputation and it's very versatile in its connectors.

nu1mlock:
SNIP

All my stuff already has 4-5 star reviews from amazon and very good reliability. I'm using the headphones I linked to right now. Had them for about 8 months and they're highly reliable.

You should calm down a bit. I only made a recommendation regarding another mouse. I thought you created this thread for input from other users.

I also said you should at least check them out and try them, there's a big difference. And that's free, you know.

You should know that a 5-star review doesn't mean it's good. You should also know that people give 5-star reviews simply because "it works", "I've got nothing else to compare with" and "It's better than my last mouse". It has almost nothing to do with how good the mouse actually is.

You're free to choose whatever components you wish but you should also stop acting like an asshole when I recommend something you simply think is too expensive (and it's not that expensive anyway, especially not the cheaper mouse I linked).

nu1mlock:
You should also calm down a bit. I only made a recommendation regarding another mice. I thought you created this thread for input from other users.

I also said you should at least check them out and try them, there's a big difference. And that's free, you know.

You should also know that a 5-star review doesn't mean it's good. You should also know that people give 5-star reviews simply because "it works", "I've got nothing else to compare with" and "It's better than my last mouse". It has almost nothing to do with how good the mouse actually is.

You're free to choose whatever components you wish but you should also stop acting like an asshole when I recommend something you simply think is too expensive (and it's not that expensive anyway, especially not the cheaper mouse I linked).

Well it's not just you, its other people as well. And this happened last time when I did this on a different site. Seriously, it just badgers me that people say "you can't have that mouse, it's not horrendously expensive enough". OK, I'm done ranting. *seethe*

Besides, it may be the case that people are just giving it 5 stars because "it's better than my last mouse", but the fact is that hundreds of people have given it this rating, which is enough for me, even if it's not for you.

Hey.

I know this always turns into sort of an annoyingly hot topic, but I feel an urge to chime in here.

I think you need a stronger power supply if you really intend to go cutting edge on GPU. What I've seen so far regarding power draw for the GTX 660 Ti, it'll be around 150W for a single display. That would leave 500W for... everything else. Might be enough, might not be enough. And it really sucks to buy two power supplies in a short period of time with no easy way of returning the used one.

My minimum recommendation would be 750W, and if you're going for a small/midi case, I suggest you consider any branded power supply that offers a modular cable setup, as you can always expand, but you don't have a bunch of unused cables clogging your rig (preventing proper airflow, for one).

I personally prefer a minimum screen size of 1920x1200, especially for doing paperwork stuff. 1080 really is pretty perfect for video, but for actual work getting done (and games) it's the absolute minimum. I get your point about the price, though, as those slightly bigger panels cost at least double, so that might not be an option.

trollpwner:
Well it's not just you, its other people as well. And this happened last time when I did this on a different site. Seriously, it just badgers me that people say "you can't have that mouse, it's not horrendously expensive enough". OK, I'm done ranting. *seethe*

Yeah well, I was just trying to contribute. Not anywhere did I try to force anything on you. You asked for contributions, I gave mine.

It had nothing to do with it being more expensive, I was ONLY recommending it because it's great. That's it.

trollpwner:

Nope.avi

I'm curious why you feel you need a top-end cooler to run a CPU at stock? Also good luck getting your RAM sticks in and out with that big ass cooler sitting on top of them as well as all the other joys of having a case with no space left over.

I'm suspecting that OP isn't really looking for advice however, but validation. So if you want to be really cool, we need to go indier. Brand names just don't hold the cred they used to - you need to land the serious shit. You can probably buy something from here:

http://www.liquidnitrogenplant.com

Get that fucker real cool.

Djinn8:

trollpwner:

Nope.avi

I'm curious why you feel you need a top-end cooler to run a CPU at stock? Also good luck getting your RAM sticks in and out with that big ass cooler sitting on top of them as well as all the other joys of having a case with no space left over.

I'm suspecting that OP isn't really looking for advice however, but validation. So if you want to be really cool, we need to go indier. Brand names just don't hold the cred they used to - you need to land the serious shit. You can probably buy something from here:

http://www.liquidnitrogenplant.com

Get that fucker real cool.

So....in no particular order....

The RAM is low profile, the processor is overclockable, even if the processor is at stock speeds, lower temperatures prolong CPU lifespan and I wasn't using that space right above the CPU for anything else.

Any further questions? Or would you rather have *your* choice of cooler validated, eh?

Djinn8:
PS: Something to watch out for when buing cases and power supplies. Most cases have bottom mounted PSU, but a lot of PSUs are designed to fit in a top mounted case. They will still fit, but the air flow won't be optimal and you'll need to buy an extension lead for your CPU power supply.

Really? I've only had to use an extension lead for CPU power once. Twice if you count wanting to run the lead behind the motherboard instead of over it.

trollpwner:

So....in no particular order....

The RAM is low profile, the processor is overclockable, even if the processor is at stock speeds, lower temperatures prolong CPU lifespan and I wasn't using that space right above the CPU for anything else.

Any further questions? Or would you rather have *your* choice of cooler validated, eh?

I suggested Artic Cooling because they are cheap, reliable, quite and suitable for your needs.

...and it's just not needed. I don't know how far you plan to OC in the future, but I think you might be over-estimating the amount of cooling you're going to need. And like I said, it's going to make your build a pain to manage and totally inaccessable when working on it.

Need to change out your RAM: diassemble the big-ass fan.
Need to clean the dust out your case: can't reach in.
Need to move you PC around: be real careful or the weight of the cooler is going to damage stuff on the inside.

The list goes on.

If I was sarcastic with you it is only beacuse someone who denounces suggestions without discussion and runs of to image search for his responce raises an eyebrow with me.

Formica Archonis:

Djinn8:
PS: Something to watch out for when buing cases and power supplies. Most cases have bottom mounted PSU, but a lot of PSUs are designed to fit in a top mounted case. They will still fit, but the air flow won't be optimal and you'll need to buy an extension lead for your CPU power supply.

Really? I've only had to use an extension lead for CPU power once. Twice if you count wanting to run the lead behind the motherboard instead of over it.

That's pretty much what I'm getting at - around the back that is. Who want's wires dangling front and centre.

Djinn8:

trollpwner:

So....in no particular order....

The RAM is low profile, the processor is overclockable, even if the processor is at stock speeds, lower temperatures prolong CPU lifespan and I wasn't using that space right above the CPU for anything else.

Any further questions? Or would you rather have *your* choice of cooler validated, eh?

I suggested Artic Cooling because they are cheap, reliable, quite and suitable for your needs.

...and it's just not needed. I don't know how far you plan to OC in the future, but I think you might be over-estimating the amount of cooling you're going to need. And like I said, it's going to make your build a pain to manage and totally inaccessable when working on it.

Need to change out your RAM: diassemble the big-ass fan.
Need to clean the dust out your case: can't reach in.
Need to move you PC around: be real careful or the weight of the cooler is going to damage stuff on the inside.

The list goes on.

If I was sarcastic with you it is only beacuse someone who denounces suggestions without discussion and runs of to image search for his responce raises an eyebrow with me.

I want to keep it as cool as possible, because cool CPU's last longer and I'm going to be using the computer for several years, so I don't want it to break. Sure, the cooler needs removing when you dust it, move it or upgrade it, but that's not too much work if you're already messing around inside the computer. And considering how hot ivy bridge runs if you try and overclock it, I'm more than happy to keep it. But if you really, really think you can find a better cooler, give it a shot.

BTW, I already knew that the antec 300 houses a Noctua nicely. But it's nice to be able to show that simply.

Pretty good. Can't say much about the 660Ti until it gets benched, but I'm sure it'll be fast. That cooler is crazy, definitely a good one but you could look into some others too. It's no longer the best.
image

PSU is fine, power wise, but I'd advise seeing if you can get a more efficient one, 80 Plus Silver, Gold, or Platinum.

Also to the guy that said LED is better than LCD... they're the same thing. LCD have LED backlighting. "LED" displays are actually OLED and they're both rare and expensive. IPS is the best right now. OP: You might want to get an ebay 27" 2560x1440 Korean IPS display for $300. Check this out: http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291

I'd also consider faster RAM (1600mhz CL8 or faster even). I know it's often said that RAM doesn't make a difference, but the price difference isn't that much.

The only other thing is, is there any reason you're going WiFi? If you can get setup on an N network connection it might be ok, but I always advise wired. 50 feet of ethernet cable is like $15 or something, it's worth it IMO to run a cable if you can.

trollpwner:
snip

That 660 Ti review was insanely biased. They used old old drivers with the AMD cards and even suspiciously omitted some of the cards in some of the benchmarks. They also used games that are known to run on nVidia hardware better, notice how old some of the games are. Far Cry 2 as a benchmark, really???

The whole review stinks.

The only definite I have to say is you should go for an IPS monitor, if you are building a whole new setup then don't go for TN.

You could get rid of wireless and use homeplugs instead, I find them to be much better.

Seeing as the 3570K OC's very well it may be worth getting a cheaper cooler that could do a similar job. This Hyper 212 Plus is good. Though there is no problem with the Noctua.

trollpwner:

It's true that heat can shorten the life of a CPU, but by how much I cannot say. I don't think it's going to be that great of an amount unless you really abuse it with voltage. I have a PC here that's 8 years old with a stock cooler and a modest OC (2.4GHz - 2.6GHz) and that's fine. My real PC is a few years old now and has a more significant OC (3GHz - 3.6GHz) and is running on a cooler I picked up for 20 without any problems.

I've not seen anything on Ivy Bridge running hot, at least nothing notorious like AMD hexacores. However it begs the question, why you would want to buy one if you have heard about these heat problems?

Taking the fan apart all the time is asking for trouble. Everytime you muck around with it, you risk upsetting the thermal paste. That's one sure way to shorten the life of your CPU.

Wolfram23:

The only other thing is, is there any reason you're going WiFi? If you can get setup on an N network connection it might be ok, but I always advise wired. 50 feet of ethernet cable is like $15 or something, it's worth it IMO to run a cable if you can.

It's definitely better, but it's just so much hassle to wire it up. I'll mostly be using it at uni, where I will thankfully have ethernet, but wifi is allright until the.

Also, thanks for the fan list. That looks great. That thermalright fan is better at cooling AND cheaper AND quieter AND smaller! Perfect. Thanks.

Careful, OP doesn't want suggestions, he has already decided on his setup and will only defend his choices. He's NOT open for suggestions whatsoever.

Edit: Except for fans.

Matthew94:

trollpwner:
snip

That 660 Ti review was insanely biased. They used old old drivers with the AMD cards and even suspiciously omitted some of the cards in some of the benchmarks. They also used games that are known to run on nVidia hardware better, notice how old some of the games are. Far Cry 2 as a benchmark, really???

The whole review stinks.

The only definite I have to say is you should go for an IPS monitor, if you are building a whole new setup then don't go for TN.

You could get rid of wireless and use homeplugs instead, I find them to be much better.

Seeing as the 3570K OC's very well it may be worth getting a cheaper cooler that could do a similar job. This Hyper 212 Plus is good. Though there is no problem with the Noctua.

Yeah, I'm not too happy with that review either. Lots of people complained about it in the comments.

As for wifi, dangling an ethernet cable up the stairs and along busy hallways is not a recipe for happy families. But I'll be able to use ethernet at uni. As for monitors, I found a new one, which costs about the same and has rave reviews. I've edited it into the OP.

Djinn8:

trollpwner:

It's true that heat can shorten the life of a CPU, but by how much I cannot say. I don't think it's going to be that greater an amount unless you really abuse it with voltage. I have a PC here that's 8 years old with a stock cooler and a modest OC (2.4GHz - 2.6GHz) and that's fine. My real PC is a few years old now and has a more significant OC (3GHz - 3.6GHz) and is running on a cooler I picked up for 20 without any problems.

I've not seen anything on Ivy Bridge running hot, at least nothing notorious like AMD hexacores. However it begs the question, why you would want to buy one if you have heard about these heat problems?

Taking the fan apart all the time is asking for trouble. Everytime you muck around with it, you risk upsetting the thermal paste. That's one sure way to shorten the life of your CPU.

Hmmm...well I see what you mean. Wolfram managed to find me a smaller cooler that was cheaper, cooler and quieter anyway. Thanks for the help anyhoo.

nu1mlock:
Careful, OP doesn't want suggestions, he has already decided on his setup and will only defend his choices. He's NOT open for suggestions whatsoever.

Edit: Except for fans.

Well guess who looks silly now....

mikecoulter:
Great build! But I would change the screen, I'd go for an LED panel rather than LCD, far better contrast ratios.

LED is the backlight, LCD is what the screen is made of. You do not have one or the other.

trollpwner:

Matthew94:

trollpwner:
snip

That 660 Ti review was insanely biased. They used old old drivers with the AMD cards and even suspiciously omitted some of the cards in some of the benchmarks. They also used games that are known to run on nVidia hardware better, notice how old some of the games are. Far Cry 2 as a benchmark, really???

The whole review stinks.

The only definite I have to say is you should go for an IPS monitor, if you are building a whole new setup then don't go for TN.

You could get rid of wireless and use homeplugs instead, I find them to be much better.

Seeing as the 3570K OC's very well it may be worth getting a cheaper cooler that could do a similar job. This Hyper 212 Plus is good. Though there is no problem with the Noctua.

Yeah, I'm not too happy with that review either. Lots of people complained about it in the comments.

As for wifi, dangling an ethernet cable up the stairs and along busy hallways is not a recipe for happy families. But I'll be able to use ethernet at uni. As for monitors, I found a new one, which costs about the same and has rave reviews. I've edited it into the OP.

No no no! You don't get it :D

Homeplugs don't leave wires everywhere, that's why they are great. You put one next to your router and plug it into the wall. You then connect it to the router.

You plug the other into the wall next to your PC then connect it to the PC. The net signal gets transmitted through the electricity cables in your home. You get the speed of wired with next to no mess.

It's great!

image

It looms like this, you connect it to the router and the other to your PC.

Matthew94:

No no no! You don't get it :D

Homeplugs don't leave wires everywhere, that's why they are great. You put one next to your router and plug it into the wall. You then connect it to the router.

You plug the other into the wall next to your PC then connect it to the PC. The net signal gets transmitted through the electricity cables in your home. You get the speed of wired with next to no mess.

It's great!

image

It looms like this, you connect it to the router and the other to your PC.

Wait-wha? Those things are awesome! Seriously! Where can I get one?

EDIT: they are expensive though... How much better performance than a dongle would I get?

trollpwner:
As for monitors, I found a new one, which costs about the same and has rave reviews. I've edited it into the OP.

I saw that, it's not IPS though and that's what I'm saying you should get.

Trust me, they are very good.

Matthew94:

trollpwner:
As for monitors, I found a new one, which costs about the same and has rave reviews. I've edited it into the OP.

I saw that, it's not IPS though and that's what I'm saying you should get.

Trust me, they are very good.

How much do they cost, though? Could I have a link, please?

Alright, here's a serious suggestion for you OP:

Stop this right now. You've said it yourself, you won't have this setup finished until SEPTEMBER 2013 (!) anyway. Just save your money and get whatever is at the same price your current imaginary setup is.

That way you'll get better stuff for the same money.

Oh, I almost forgot:

trollpwner:
So, if you've got any questions at all about the suitability of these parts or about the quality of this build, please don't hesitate to throw them at me, but I'll see if I can pre-empt a few here.

Yeah, the quality of the mouse you chose is low. Very low. You asked, there you have it. Just letting you know the quality is low. Same with the headset. Doesn't matter if it has worked "the last 8 months", it's still low quality. Very low.

Now you know.

Keep in mind though, the focus is on the top of my post here, save your money for September 2013 and buy your computer by then. It'll be a lot better. Or a lot cheaper if you buy with your current setup specifications.

Matthew94:
SNIP

OK: here's an IPS monitor, does it look any good?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-E2251VR-inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B0060LCBTG/ref=sr_1_7?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1344100402&sr=1-7

Also, those homeplugs aren't more than about 20. That might be a worthwhile update at some point.

EDIT: here's one. Does it look any good as well?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/devolo-dLAN-Highspeed-HomePlug-Starter/dp/B0028QKNI8/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1344100613&sr=1-6

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